SIMPLY yet eloquently put by the most reverential of food lovers – the Bengalis – the query ‘maachbhaath khaabe?’ contains layers of cultural sub-text. For these temperamental, passionate men and women from Sonar Bangla, bhaath (rice) is less a source of sustenance, and more a symbol of abundance, and thereby, emotional security.

In short, the Bengali cannot be separated from his bhaath. And thus, any sign of dwindling rice provisions in the bhandar ghar (store room) will have the superstitious housewife saying quickly that the rice is increasing, hoping to avert impending bad luck by saying the opposite of the truth... The Bengali’s love for maachh (fish) is in a softer vein, though just as ardent.

MUCH FUSS, MUCH ADO Coming to the daily nitty-gritties, it is the man of the house who throws himself into the task of selecting the fish of the day, expressing many opinions loudly and forcefully at the machher bazaar... such as the questionable weight of the bhetki, which should be a whopping eight kilos at the least. Lively argument and some sharp haggling ensure the most spirited rui and koi fish, and on good days, the silvery ilish... Such is the obsession with fish, it would be sacrilege to suggest that any part be discarded – the head is either fried crisp, or cooked into a flavoursome stew with vegetables and daal.

Even a regular, everyday meal always follows protocol. First, the bitter shukto (a mix of veggies with a dominant bitter note provided by bitter gourd, or the bitter leaf of the wax gourd), then rice and daal (usually the popular laal saag, using the leaves of the red spinach). Ghonto has the vegetables cooked to a soft mush, and topped with a little milk. Tele bhaja comes next, which has either onion rings, sliced eggplant or the ubiquitous potato, dipped in a tasty lentil batter and fried in mustard oil. The golden mustard oil, once stored in row after row of zinc-lined tins, next to enormous terracotta jars of rice in the bhandar ghar; continues to give Bengali cuisine its biting, sharp flavour, along with mustard sauce (kasundi) and the magical paanch phoron spice mix.

Then comes the much awaited fish course, which could be the wonderful bhaapa ilish, which has cut pieces of hilsa mixed with a mayonnaise-like paste of ground mustard seeds, mustard oil, red and green chillies, turmeric and salt; wrapped in an airtight package of banana leaves and cooked along with rice. The fish stays moist and tender while allowing the simple spices to permeate to its very core.

Every course is served individually, and a little portion of rice spooned on the plate in perfect consonance. The kosha mangsho, an outstanding roasted mutton dish, is an option to a second fish course. About now, an ambal or chutney appears. And then there’s the sweet finale – payesh or mishti doi.

It's good to be Bong.

(anon fwd)

Some links for you to check out our recipies:

http://www.sos-arsenic.net/english/cooking/cooking.html

http://milonee.net/bengali_recipes/intro.html